Friday 8 March 2013

A door closes...

A door closes but another one opens!

As I'm no longer in Japan (and indeed, have been for quite some time) this blog is no longer going to be updated.
But, if you dearly wish to keep up with my antics and so forth, hop on over to http://iamaramblingblogger.blogspot.co.uk to start following my new one!

Monday 20 August 2012

Japan: A Retrospective


Fair warning to all who read: this might not be as funny as the rest, but it's stuff that I want to say. Also, it's quite long. I suggest that about half way through you go for a cup of tea, or something...

So, today (Monday, 20th August 2012) is my last day in Japan as an exchange student at Hosei University. Though in truth I finished my tenure at Hosei almost a month ago, I suppose I'm still technically a Hosei student.
At the time of writing this exact sentence I have nine and a half hours before my flight, though when many of you read this, I could well already be on it. I still have vivid memories of my flight to Japan, I was talking to a lot of people, and got to practice my Japanese before even setting a toe on Japanese soil!
I remember so vividly arriving in the room that was to be my home for the next 11 months: it was bland and empty, and very isolated. I was to exhausted for anything but bed, so I unpacked a few things, got myself into bed and just slept.
When in actuality, this was about fifty weeks ago, it still just feels like I've been here less than a fifth of that... At times at least.
At other times, I feel like I've lived here for much, much longer: Japan has been such a welcoming country, as well as Hosei University and the dormitory where I live, that it feels like I belong here in a way that I don't get in England - I think this is a feeling that will be entirely reversed upon returning home, though Keighley isn't the most welcoming of places at the best of times!

So, what should I say about this amazing year (yes, I'm rounding up)?
Should I talk about how much my Japanese has improved, given that this was the aim of the year abroad?
Perhaps I'll talk about the places I've been and the things I've done, given that I have been as busy as possible this year?
Maybe I could talk about all the amazing people I've met, both from Japan and from elsewhere in the world?
Or how about how I taught English as a part time job and have a new appreciation for people trying to learn English as a foreign language?
Perhaps about some of the amazing classes I took at Hosei, sparking new interests or rekindling old ones?

For me, Japan has been such a varied experience, that to talk about it all in one blog post feels not only an impossible task, but also it feels like a disservice to all of the people I've met, the things I've done and this country as a whole. So I won't talk about everything, as there's so much more than just the above few things that have made this year incredible.

The whole purpose of my trip to Japan was to improve my Japanese and gain insight into the culture of Japan. I can safely say that I have done this. Perhaps, not as much as I would have liked: I certainly expected to have a broader vocabulary than I do, but my ability to converse has gone way up. Not to mention, I have discovered whole new realms of study-methods that will in future help me to improve my Japanese even further! 日本語よ、かかってこいぞ!

I have done many weird and wonderful things in Japan, some of them fun, some not so fun. As you'll have read (I hope) in my earlier blog posts, I went to Kobe in June and saw more penis in one day than most non-urologists do in a life-time. I went to the Studio Ghibli museum, which was a fantastic afternoon out. I got so drunk in Roppongi that I blacked out and woke up behind a hotel sign with no idea how I got there and no idea where my friends were. I shouted at a police man in English when he couldn't help us find Kristy's stolen bag. And most recently, I was involved (like my good friend Thibault) in a bicycle chase across Kasai:
The police in Japan are fierce about you waiting for the
green light O_o
















Ahh the people I've met! This is where having Facebook has become something of a) a liability and b) a cause for embarrassment. My first few weeks in Japan, I was meeting so many new people and then finding my Facebook page overloaded with friend requests, that I just started accepting them whether or not I actually knew the people. This has led to more than one sticky moment in a corridor at Hosei where someone has said "Hi Bill! I saw about your recent antics involving a large quantity of alcohol, empty beer cans and a rudimentary throne on Facebook!" (I may be paraphrasing ever so slightly) (Also: see below for further details). The point is, despite this person apparently knowing everything there is to know about my life (my fault I suppose, I shouldn't put anywhere near the amount of stuff on Facebook that I actually do!), I have next to no idea who this person actually is... Maybe I got drunk with them once, maybe I met them in a lesson, or just got chatting to them whilst wandering around campus. It can be quite embarrassing (not to mention difficult) to feign a perfect knowledge of who somebody is, and this compounded with having to do it in a foreign language makes it downright difficult.
   Other than the veritable cornucopia of Japanese people I've met and befriended, there have been the rest of the exchange students in Japan. I have met people from France, China, America, Russia, Italy, Australia and all sorts! It has been amazing getting to know all of these people and making such strong relationships in such a short space of time.
Honourable mentions go to:
Ron Hurrle: for some of the silliest times spent here, all on a six-pack of beers.
Thibault Bachoffner (I hope I'm spelling that right darling!): for some amazingly chilled times on the roof.
George Cashman: for the co-invention of bottle-ball and the motivation to play at all hours of the night.
Ren Zhihao: for some of the most hilarious and dead-pan one-liners I've ever heard.
Rachel Holt: for the nickname poo-face and general silliness.
Kristy Jones: for the inability to get anywhere on time, or ride the trains without making a mistake.
Kate Tepper: for introducing me to the Peace Rock, which despite closing down, was an awesome hang-out spot.

Ron and I decided to build a castle out of all of our
empty beer cans from the year... Castle was difficult, but I flew!
















There are so many more, and I don't want to make this drag on longer than it has to, I still have a couple more topics to get through! People that I didn't mention, please know this: Japanese or otherwise, you are no less important to me, have affected my life no less, and will be just as missed as everyone else whom I did mention.

There are so many more people that aren't in this photo that I've come to know
and love, but this shot has the most in one.


At this point, you've been reading for some time: so go stretch your legs or something. Have a brew. Walk the dog. I'll still be here when you get back, so go on.









Ok, and we're back.

A part-time job, it turns out, is pretty much essential for living in Tokyo (if not all of Japan). Tokyo being the most expensive city on earth requires a fair amount of dollar to do something like go for a meal, or have a night out. There is no concept of "student night" at any drinking establishment (though I have previously alluded to the wondrous nomihoudai in my previous posts), and so a full night out, encompassing the same activities as one would do in England would probably cost somewhere in the region of £100.
Digression aside, I got a job teaching English. The premise was: I meet the student in a coffee shop, they buy me a drink and then I teach them English, after which I get paid ¥2000. This was both a really good job, and a really bad job. Good because an hour's work of using my native language for the equivalent of £20 is a damned good deal! Furthermore, I got the chance to think about English from the Japanese point of view and try to approach it with Japanese in mind: a good challenge!
However, it was bad too: the fact that I worked just one hour was sometimes hugely inconvenient, especially when I had nothing but work at 7pm in one day, and had to trek all the way out to Iidabashi. Moreover, I did have some terribly non-committed students, who cancelled more lessons than they attended... This was often very bad, as I was relying on the money I would be receiving and had to juggle my budget accordingly more times than is absolutely necessary.
Finally, it is difficult to teach a foreign language with a) no prior experience of teaching anything (foreign language or otherwise) and b) no linguistic knowledge whatsoever. Trying to explain complex (or sometimes remarkably simple) concepts such as why we say "in Tokyo" but "at University", or "a town which..." vs. "a town where...", "who" and "whom", "sung" and "sang", and "the" vs. "a". There were so many more, but this is just a sample. Try teaching these things to someone who is not fluent in the language you're explaining in (or try explaining in a language you're not fluent in), in as simple a way as possible. Go on. Have a think. It's bloody difficult.

Finally I'll briefly talk about Hosei. Looking through my pictures, I'm actually stunned to see that I don't have all that many of the campus! It must have become rather mundane to me, though of course it is nothing of the sort.
The Boissonade Tower - Hosei's iconic 26 story building















I took a few really great classes at Hosei: a translation class, taking Japanese haiku and tanka and putting them into modern English (not as easy at it sounds); a Shakespeare class, reading Macbeth and rekindling a love for English literature (I expected the class to be in Japanese, but it was still fun!); a linguistics class, talking about the application of linguistic knowledge in the real world (a fascinating topic, which led Ron and I to attempt creating our own language, vosmir).
All of these classes (as well as my actual Japanese classes) taught me a lot, and gave me a whole new set of knowledge, and many more doors to open in the palace of interest. I shall be doing a lot of reading in the next few years! Linguistics is one of the most fascinating things I've ever had the fortune to study!




When I first came to Japan, I was a totally different person. Not least because then, the amount of facial hair I could grow was laughable (which it still is now, just less so). I was much less socially inclined, happier to spend time on my own and I found it very difficult to talk to people I had never met before.
Now though, I am (by comparison) a social animal: being on my own has very little to no attraction for me, and I'm glad of the change: the past couple of days in which I've been the only exchange student left at the dormitory have been very quiet and I would have loved to be able to go up to the roof with everyone all together one last time. Again by comparison, I can talk to people I don't know much more easily, both in English and in Japanese - something that I am very happy of in myself.
I don't know how Japan has changed me like this, perhaps it has something to do with growing older whilst I was here, or the utterly different way of life. Maybe it's something they put in the food. Either way: Japan has made me a happier, more confident, and in my opinion, better person than I was before.
Oh, Japan did make me a lightweight (even more so), therefore my first weeks back at Leeds will be an exercise in tolerance-building!


So then. All that is left for me to say is goodbye to Japan. Which is something I really do not want to do. If I could bring all the people and things I love to Japan instead, I would do it in a heartbeat. But alas, I return home in eight and a half hours (wow! It's taken me an hour to write all of this!). My final meal in Japan shall be ramen, and I drank my last beer last night.
Goodbye is such a final word, and it most certainly will not be goodbye, Japan. I will be back. Maybe not to Tokyo, and maybe not all that soon, but I will be back. You have not seen the last of me. As all of my friends have said before me: "It's not goodbye, it's see you later."

Sunday 22 July 2012

Things I will and won't miss about Japan

So, the time is fast approaching: I have just four weeks left in this incredible country and I'm starting to think about what it'll be like to be home.
Many things will likely come up on this list under both categories, because there is some aspect I will love, and some that I will hate.

Things I Will Miss

University Life in Japan
It is a surprising thing that, for all its reputation of being as grueling as a 48-hour slog on a treadmill at full pace, University in Japan has been quite easy. We hear stories from many of our friends at how difficult it was to get into University (and high school, for that matter), often with days starting at 6am and ending at 11pm, all in preparation for the entrance exams.
Now, whether it's because I'm a foreign student or because it's just the way Japanese Universities are, I don't know - but the classes (I should say lecture, but I really can't bring myself to) and the tests (because they're definitely not exams) are so much easier than even A-levels, it's difficult to comprehend. Hindsight being 20-20, maybe I should have joined fewer GIS/ESOP classes (the ones that are in English) and more actual 学部 classes (full university courses).

Public transport in Tokyo
While I can't speak for the buses, the trains in Tokyo run like clockwork (one line is completely automated, even!). I think the most I've ever waited for a train was 30 minutes, and that was because it was 5am, and we wanted to get on the first train. For me, at any rate, the trains here have only ever been one or two minutes late. But the thing I really love about this, is that there is no grand apology for the train being late, announced over the tannoy in the station. Everyone just quietly gets on with waiting. If the wait is significant (not really sure what would constitute significant, but lets say about ten minutes) then there is an apology. This sounds so much better than Northern Rail apologising for every train being late even when it's just one minute. It actually sounds like the metro company feels bad about the delay (not least because it's a real person who gives the apology).
Oh yeah, and it's just cheap! One side of Tokyo to the other (basically from where I live to Yokohama) is roughly 1000yen. That's £8. Try crossing London for less than that. Hell, it's something like £5 just to get to Leeds from Keighley!

Izakayas
Japan doesn't have pubs. 居酒屋 literally means inhabit-alcohol-room. One's order is made like at a restaurant, and the alcohol is brought to you. Often, an all-you-can-drink is offered, for something astoundingly cheap - think about £15-20 for 2 hours of as much alcohol as you can stomach. The atmosphere in an izakaya depends wildly on the place in question, but by and large they are places of merriment and rowdiness (drinking songs and games are usually performed/played with much gusto). Google translate tells me that 居酒屋 translates as "tavern" - this sounds about right.

Japanese food
This is something that I've come to enjoy less and less as the prospect of real, British food is fast advancing (oh Yorkshire puddings and gravy: how I miss thee!), but there are still certain dishes that I crave on a regular basis: good, high quality ramen is chuffin' delicious! Sushi is also damned good, and the more said about gyuudon (frilly beef to my little sister) the better. Some, or all, of these things I think I'll have to learn to make when I go home, to better inflict upon those poor souls that haven't come so far east.

Weather
Whilst mild and rainy suits me down to the ground, and 30+ degree heats are not all that fun, I will still miss how Japan's weather basically returns to sunshine and heat after a day or two of rain, and all puddles and memory of the rain is basically gone (except for the odd, discarded umbrella). And yes, I do wilt in such dreadful heat, and haven't managed to tan very much (something that I'll be changing next week!), but I just love how I can wake up most days to clear blue skies, the sun shining through my window and not have to bother putting anything but shorts on.

Convenience Stores (コンビニ)
With a Seven-Eleven on most street corners, or a Lawson, Family Mart or Sunkus, you are never without emergency provisions at hand. If you get a bit peckish, pop into a combini and grab yourself a rice-ball for 100yen! Or if you're in need of something less foody, why not buy an umbrella? Or perhaps you want to catch up on the latest exploits of your favourite anime character? Buy the latest volume. Do you need stationary? Or make-up? Maybe a screwdriver or two? Perhaps you want to buy tickets to a concert or a plane ticket. There is basically no need to go anywhere else if you have a convenience store in close proximity to you. Truly these stores are convenient!

Heated Toilet Seats
This is something that (thanks to a 30+ degree summer, and it's not even August yet) I've not really experienced lately, but was eternally grateful for in the cold months of January and February... At first I was apprehensive about such an invention, as nobody likes using a toilet with someone else's... warmth on the seat. However, the more I experienced it, the more I came to appreciate it: The toilets at my dormitory are not heated, and the toilet room itself is not so great at keeping in the heat. As a result, every time I wanted to go to the loo, I was faced with pressing my cheeks to a sub-zero toilet seat and get finished as fast as possible. Therefore, I made sure to use the toilet in a convenience store with as much regularity as I could muster. Come winter, I'll no doubt be missing these!

Frisbee in the park
This semester, we've gone to play Frisbee (takes a capital 'f'... Who knew?!) in the park nearby to my dormitory a hell of a lot. It started out as playing during the day on a weekend, or public holiday... But it very soon escalated to going out every night and throwing the disc around. We've even invented our own sport out of it. Now, this isn't something that I can only experience in Japan, and it may be that it's the people that I do this with most often that I'll miss the most (I'm looking at you Thibault Bachoffner, George Cashman and Ron Hurrle), but when I go home... It doesn't bare thinking about.
Hi, my name is Bill, and I'm an addict... It's been 23 hours since I last threw a Frisbee.


Things I Won't Miss
This is likely to end up as something of a rant about most of my bad experiences, and don't let it give you a false impression of Japan, or of my feelings about Japan: everywhere has its good and bad points, and Tokyo is no exception.

Crowds
Tokyo, being the capital of Japan has an enormous population (which varies massively depending on how you measure). Never is this more apparent when you go to a festival, or ride a train at 8.30 in the morning, or about 10 in the evening. Japanese people in general being pretty courteous are nothing of the sort in a crowd. On the train coming back from a late night of work, I had successfully negotiated a seat from the get-go (no small feat, let me tell you!). As the train got closer to Kasai, where I live, it got more and more fuller - nothing strange, as Kasai seems to be where most people that ride the Tozai line live. As the train pulled into and stopped at Kasai, no sooner had I risen from my seat (we're talking inches here) than some woman was pushing me out of the way to get to the seat itself. Grr doesn't cover it. At the best of times, I don't like crowds, but Japanese trains are downright horrible at the wrong times.

Food
Japanese food, whilst delicious, is invariably expensive and far too small. To order a pizza at a restaurant in Japan is to pay about £10 for something smaller than a normal dinner plate. A plate of chips can set you back £5, and a curry that would barely fill a child (and at nearly maximum heat did not even make my tongue tingle) was nearly £15. And if I never eat another fish with bones in it again, it'll be too soon. Japan: kindly get your shit together.
Dormitory Life
As a 19 year old (20 soon, woo!) a midnight curfew is pretty annoying... For some of the older folks here, I bet it's downright offensive. But this one's not so much annoying as a minor inconvenience: it's absurdly easy to climb the fence and get in through one of the perpetually open fire-doors (don't get me started!). In fact, I'll probably miss the exhilarating rush of climbing the fence in the dead of night more than I won't miss it! But what really annoys me about living in a dorm is the other people, specifically the Japanese people. Most of them seem to be either in the tail-end of high school or the first few years of University. As such, a good deal of them are moody as hell and pretty antisocial. And a helpful hint: playing the trombone/trumpet/French horn or whatever it is at midnight is not cool Goddammit!! And another thing: is it so f***ing difficult to clean up the sink that we all use every day after you've shaved in it. I don't want to go to a sink to brush my teeth or whatever and find that it's covered in hair that you couldn't be arsed rinsing away.

Convenience store shouting
When I enter a shop, it's always nice to be greeted. But dragging out いらっしゃいませ to a five second soliloquy is just ridiculous. It's unnecessary and annoying. Don't do it. Also, some of the convenience store staff seem to think it's acceptable to shout in a voice that you can hear at the back of the shop exactly how much money you've passed them and precisely how much change you've received. This again is infuriating and pointless, but also potentially dangerous. Don't do it.

Bikes in Japan
Now this could well just be Kasai (where I live), and there is a reasonable amount of evidence to support that claim. But in any case: there should be a law against people having no mufflers on their motorbikes/scooters etc. I have lost count of the times I've been awoken at 4 in the smegging morning by some utter tool driving past my window on a motorbike. It's just not cool. And one just went past my room as I was writing this. Even if they don't go past at absurd hours of the morning, it's still annoying if you're watching a film, having a conversation or trying to read when a bike that must be breaking some kind of legal sound limit thunders past your room and makes your ears vibrate.

Mosquitoes
Enough said. Japan is crawling with insects, but I've not this year had to deal with too many, except for the damned mosquitoes. The lower half of both of my calves are riddled with bites, to the point where I woke up whilst scratching them. Luckily, at the time of biting, I was completely topless but seem to have escaped any biting of my torso. But still: I. Hate. Mosquitoes!!!
Also, I'm pretty sure that spell check is just messing with me here: I don't think I've ever used an 'e' to pluralise mosquito...


That's probably broadly it... I might update the list as more things come to mind later on, and I'll probably do another version of this after I've been at home for a few weeks. じゃね!